Starting with solar power can feel like a big leap, but breaking the process into clear, manageable steps makes it approachable for anyone. This guide walks you through the fundamentals, from figuring out what you want solar to do, to estimating energy needs, understanding the basic units, and avoiding common traps. Every recommendation here draws on publicly available information from government and university extension sources, so you can move forward with confidence.

Short version: Decide your goal, list your loads, learn the units, understand sunlight, read specs, try a small project, follow the DOE guide for home systems, and watch out for scams.

Step 1: Decide what you want solar to do

Before you buy any equipment, get clear on your goal. Are you looking to charge a phone and a few small devices while camping? Do you want a backup power source for a couple of lights and a fan during outages? Or are you thinking about a rooftop system to offset your home’s electricity use? Each path leads to different equipment sizes and budgets. For small-scale projects, the Start Small with Solar section has practical advice. For home systems, the First Steps guide covers what you need to know.

Step 2: List your loads and estimate daily energy use

The Virginia Cooperative Extension provides a straightforward formula for estimating energy consumption: (Wattage × Hours Used per Day ÷ 1000) = Daily Kilowatt-hour (kWh) consumption. To use it, you need to know the wattage of each appliance you plan to power. According to the extension publication, the wattage is often stamped on the bottom or back of the appliance, or on its nameplate. If wattage is not listed, you can find the current draw in amperes and multiply by the voltage. Most appliances in the United States use 120 volts.

For example, a window fan rated at 200 watts running for 4 hours a day uses (200 × 4) ÷ 1000 = 0.8 kWh per day. If you run it for 120 days a year, the annual consumption would be 96 kWh. The extension also notes that many appliances draw a small amount of power even when switched off, which it calls phantom loads. Unplugging devices or using a power strip with a switch can eliminate that waste. For a more detailed walk-through, see our Energy Awareness guide.

Step 3: Learn the basic units: watts and kilowatt-hours

The U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) explains that watts measure power at a specific moment, while watthours measure how much electricity is used over a period of time. Utilities generally measure electricity in kilowatthours (kWh), and one kilowatt is 1,000 watts. The EIA’s own example: a 40-watt light bulb used for five hours uses 200 Wh, or 0.2 kWh. Understanding these units helps you compare your estimated consumption with the output of a solar panel, which is typically rated in watts. You can explore more terms in our Solar Terms Explained page.

Step 4: Understand how much sun you get and why output varies

Solar panels convert sunlight into electricity, but the amount of available sunlight changes throughout the day and year. The EIA’s solar overview states that the amount of sunlight depends on the time of day, location, season, and weather conditions. The EIA also notes that a large surface area is needed to capture enough energy to be useful, which is why a small panel produces a small amount of energy. For a home system, the Department of Energy’s homeowner guide points to PVWatts, a tool from the national laboratory now called the National Laboratory of the Rockies (formerly NREL) that estimates the energy production of grid-connected PV systems. Our How Solar Works article explains the science in plain language.

Step 5: Read specifications without getting lost

When you look at a solar panel or a portable power station, you will see numbers for wattage, voltage, and current. Wattage is the rated power. Voltage and current ratings matter when you connect parts together, because each part has limits listed in its manual. The Virginia Cooperative Extension publication explains how to find appliance wattage on a label or work it out from volts and amps, which is the same arithmetic you use on the load side. For a deeper dive into what those numbers mean, visit our Reading Specifications guide. You do not need to memorize every term; just understand what each number measures and that a rating describes defined conditions, not every day outdoors.

Step 6: Try a small first project and check the results

Doing a small project teaches the ideas quickly. Start with a modest setup: a portable solar panel and a USB power bank, or a small panel that can run a fan or charge a laptop. Measure how much energy you actually collect over a day. Compare it with your earlier estimate. Comparing the two shows how sun, shade and weather change real output. Our Planning a First Project guide offers step-by-step suggestions for beginner-friendly projects. Once you are comfortable, you can scale up to larger systems.

Step 7: When you think about a home system, follow the DOE guide

The U.S. Department of Energy’s Homeowner’s Guide to Going Solar lays out the key considerations. According to the guide, you should first assess whether your roof is suitable: solar panels are built to work in all climates, but some rooftops may not be suitable because of age or tree cover, and slope and orientation matter. The guide says panels typically perform well on south-facing roofs with a slope between 15 and 40 degrees, though other roofs may be suitable too. The guide points to PVWatts to estimate energy production.

Next, consider ownership options. The DOE guide describes buying a system, financing it with a solar loan, or a lease or power purchase agreement (PPA), and says that in general a purchased system can be installed at a lower total cost than one installed using a loan, lease or PPA. Tax incentives change with legislation, so check current official information rather than older articles. The DOE also says the best route for installation is a qualified professional who holds a certification, and names the North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners (NABCEP) as the industry-standard certification. Ask about net metering policies in your area, and whether adding battery storage makes sense for your needs. For a full walk-through, see our First Steps page and the Checklists and Worksheets section.

Step 8: Protect yourself from scams

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) warns that scammers often promise free or no-cost solar panels, huge rebates, or government programs that do not exist. According to the FTC’s consumer alert, the federal government does not install solar systems in homes for free. The FTC says anyone who pressures you into a contract or demands up-front or immediate payment is a scammer, and that legitimate businesses and government agencies will not tell you to pay with cash, gift card, wire transfer, payment app or cryptocurrency. It also advises protecting your personal information. If you encounter a suspicious offer, report it at ReportFraud.ftc.gov. Our Common Beginner Mistakes page highlights other pitfalls to avoid.

Checklist: Your solar starting path

Step Action Done?
1 Define your goal (small devices, backup, or whole home) ☐
2 List appliances and estimate daily kWh using the formula ☐
3 Learn the difference between watts and kilowatt-hours ☐
4 Check your local sun conditions and seasonal variation ☐
5 Understand basic panel and appliance specifications ☐
6 Complete a small first project and measure the results ☐
7 Review the DOE homeowner’s guide for home system considerations ☐
8 Verify installer credentials and avoid common scams ☐

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a battery with a small solar setup?

Not necessarily. A small panel can charge devices directly during the day. A battery or power bank stores energy for use after sunset or during cloudy periods. For backup power, a battery is very helpful.

Can I install solar panels myself?

The Department of Energy says the best way to install solar is through a qualified professional who holds a certification to do so, and names NABCEP as the industry-standard certification. For small portable panels, you can set them up yourself. For rooftop systems, follow the DOE’s advice to use a certified professional.

How do I know if my roof is good for solar?

The DOE guide suggests checking the age of your roof, the amount of tree cover, and the slope and orientation. South-facing roofs with a slope between 15 and 40 degrees tend to perform well. You can use the PVWatts tool to get an initial estimate of solar potential for your address.

Ready to dive deeper? Visit our Learn Solar Step by Step hub for more guides.

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